July 2 2011 Venice

We started the day at 9am taking the hotel water taxi to Saint Marks Basilica.  Saint Marks Basilica is the cathedral church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice, northern Italy. It is the most famous of the city's churches and one of the best known examples of Byzantine architecture. It lies at the eastern end of the Piazza San Marco, adjacent and connected to the Doge's Palace. Originally it was the chapel of the Doge, and has only been the city's cathedral since 1807, when it became the seat of the Patriarch of Venice, archbishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice, formerly at San Pietro di Castello. For its opulent design, gilded Byzantine mosaics, and its status as a symbol of Venetian wealth and power, from the 11th century on the building has been known by the nickname Chiesa d'Oro (Church of gold).

The Doges palace is to the right.  It housed the Doges of Venice, who were mostly symbolic figures elected for life.  They lived on the third floor of the palace, with the fourth more opulent floor reserved for goverment operations and courthouse activities.  The beauty of the interior is notable, with oils by Titian and others as well as 24 karat gold ceilings.

The Palace is connected to the prisons by the bridge of Sighs.  Although many think it is named for the beautiful canal that runs below it (part of the Gondola tours) it is actually named for the fact that prisoners would sigh as they look out the small window on the bridge over Venice for the last time before heading for their cell.  Although progressive for 15th century standards, the 14x14 cells housed 7-8 prisoners and only had a bucket for a toilet.  

We were all enthralled with the mosaics at Saint Marks, which were created over 200 years time.  The upper order of the interior is completely covered with bright mosaics containing gold, bronze, and the greatest variety of stones. The decorated surface is on the whole about 8000 m2. In the most ancient works, both Byzantine and Gothic influences can be recognized, as for example in the Saints from the 11th century between the windows of the apse. In the vault above is a mosaic with Christ Pantocrator. From the apse towards the entrance (from east to west) one can contemplate the history of Salvation in the domes: the Prophets, the Ascension and the Pentecost (Whitsun). The domes over the transept are called St John’s (stories of St John the Evangelist) and St Leonard’s (with other saints). In the vaults between the domes are represented episodes of Jesus’ life.

We also watched the clock tower strike 11am...the statues on either side of the bell strike with their hammers..pretty remarkable for the time when this was manufactured.

From Saint Marks, we had a nice lunch with Federica, and then toured the Rialto market before taking the boat tour to the three lagoon islands of Venice.  

Murano is the most famous of the Venetian Islands , and the most visited courtesy of the famous glass-works that produce the popular "Murano Glass". The people of Venice have been making crystal and glass since the 10th Century, when the Venetian merchants brought back the secrets of production from the East.

The Island of Burano is the most picturesque of Venetian Islands of the Lagoon. Famous for its lace-making industry, the pretty fishing village has its streets and canals lined by pastel coloured houses. Vicki bought some lace items for the girls, who were happy with the purchase.

Once the commercial capital of Venice , nowadays Torcello boasts a population of only 60 people. Deserted, the island boasts  the Venetian-Byzantine Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta founded in the 7th Century was Venice 's first cathedral.  This was a real surprise--beautifully preserved mosaics from the 13th century and a quaint, uncrowded island.  We really enjoyed the excursion.

We rested and then had a great meal at Ai Merchanti.  I had gnocchi and calf sweetbreads and the ladies were a little less adventuresome.  We drank a Guidoalberto 2006--a wine made with   Cabernet, merlot, and sangiovese...very much like a Medoc, but accessible and very drinkable.

Later, the gondola rides were mandatory..and mom sat down at a table at Saint Marks square and we were kicked out, much to the girls dismay...

Now to cap off the evening, at 1245am two drunks just came into our room after being given the key by the front desk.  I AM NOT KIDDING.  Who do they think I am, Garry Boyer?