Rome 7/7

Today, our trip was dedicated to the Vatican museum, Sistene Chapel, and Saint Peters cathedral.  No pictures allowed, but great memories.  Afterwards, we went shopping in Rome and the girls found some great bargains...our guide pointed us to the street where the Romans shop.  A great meal at a wonderful restaurant capped off the trip.

Rome 7/6-7/8

We arrived in Italy from Siena and arrived in the Hotel de Russie near the Piazza Popolo.  It is a more "Italian" type hotel--we enjoyed our stay.

We met our guide Marta the next morning and embarked on our adventure.  Our first stop included the Victor  Emmannuele II Monument, which offers a tremendous panoramic view of the city....

The Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II) or Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland) or "Il Vittoriano" is a monument to honour Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy, located in Rome, Italy. It occupies a site between the Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill. The monument was designed by Giuseppe Sacconi in 1885; sculpture for it was parceled out to established sculptors all over Italy, such as Angelo Zanelli. It was inaugurated in 1911 and completed in 1935.

The monument, "chopped with terrible brutality into the immensely complicated fabric of the hill",[3] is built of pure white marble from Botticino, Brescia, and features majestic stairways, tall Corinthian columns, fountains, a huge equestrian sculpture of Victor Emmanuel and two statues of the goddess Victoria riding on quadrigas. The structure is 135 m (443 ft) wide and 70 m (230 ft) high. If the quadrigae and winged victories are included, the height is to 81 m (266 ft).

The monument was controversial since its construction destroyed a large area of the Capitoline Hill with a Medieval neighbourhood for its sake. The monument itself is often regarded as pompous and too large.[4][6][7] It is clearly visible to most of the city of Rome despite being boxy in general shape and lacking a dome or a tower.[2] The monument is also glaringly white, making it highly conspicuous amidst the generally brownish buildings surrounding it, and its stacked, crowded nature has lent it several nicknames. Foreign people sometimes refer to the structure by a variety of nickname, such as "the wedding cake" and Romans as "the typewriter". Despite all this criticism, the monument still attracts a large number of visitors. Italian President Carlo Azeglio Ciampi fostered the opening of the Vittoriano as a public forum and viewpoint over the City core. This new accessibility allowed visitors to become familiar with the landmark, enabling it to grow in popular, if not critical, reputation.


Next, we walked to the Coliseum.  The Colosseum, or the Coliseum, originally the Flavian Amphitheatre (Latin: Amphitheatrum Flavium, Italian Anfiteatro Flavio or Colosseo), is an elliptical amphitheatre in the centre of the city of Rome, Italy, the largest ever built in the Roman Empire. It is considered one of the greatest works of Roman architecture and Roman engineering.
Occupying a site just east of the Roman Forum, its construction started in 72 AD under the emperor Vespasian and was completed in 80 AD under Titus,with further modifications being made during Domitian's reign (81–96). The name "Amphitheatrum Flavium" derives from both Vespasian's and Titus's family name (Flavius, from the gens Flavia).
Capable of seating 50,000 spectators,the Colosseum was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Classical mythology. The building ceased to be used for entertainment in the early medieval era. It was later reused for such purposes as housing, workshops, quarters for a religious order, a fortress, a quarry, and a Christian shrine.
Although in the 21st century it stays partially ruined because of damage caused by devastating earthquakes and stone-robbers, the Colosseum is an iconic symbol of Imperial Rome. It is one of Rome's most popular tourist attractions and still has close connections with the Roman Catholic Church, as each Good Friday the Pope leads a torchlit "Way of the Cross" procession that starts in the area around the Colosseum.

Next stop was the Pantheon.  The Pantheon  is a building in Rome, Italy, commissioned by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to all the gods of Ancient Rome, and rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in about 126 AD. The nearly-contemporary writer (2nd–3rd centuries AD), Cassius Dio, speculated that the name comes either from the statues of so many gods placed around this building, or else from the resemblance of the dome to the heavens Since the French Revolution, when the church of Sainte-Geneviève, Paris, was deconsecrated and turned into a secular monument, the Panthéon of Paris, the generic term pantheon has been sparsely applied to any building in which the illustrious dead are honored or buried.
The building is circular with a portico of three ranks of huge granite Corinthian columns (eight in the first rank and two groups of four behind) under a pediment. A rectangular vestibule links the porch to the rotunda, which is under a coffered, concrete dome, with a central opening (oculus) to the sky. Almost two thousand years after it was built, the Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. The height to the oculus and the diameter of the interior circle are the same, 43.3 metres (142 ft)It is one of the best preserved of all Roman buildings. It has been in continuous use throughout its history, and since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been used as a Roman Catholic church dedicated to "St. Mary and the Martyrs" but informally known as "Santa Maria Rotonda" the square in front of the Pantheon is called Piazza della Rotonda.

Dont ask me why--but we ended up in the bone museum

A standing Capuchin monk skeleton
surrounded by patterns made with bones.

Many of the monk skeletons are supine
in individual niches.

siena 7/5

We had our driver--Stefano--drive us from Florence to Siena, where we spent a few hours with our guide Stella.  We were about 30 minutes late, but first went to see the cathedral, clearly the most important structure in the city.  In 1196 the cathedral masons’ guild, the Opera di Santa Maria, was put in charge of the construction of a new cathedral. By 1215 there were already daily masses said in the new church. There are records from 1226 onwards of the transport of black and white marble, probably for the construction of the façade and the bell tower. The vaults and the transept were constructed in 1259-1260. In 1259 Manuello di Ranieri and his son Parri carved some wooden choir stalls, which were replaced about 100 years later and have now disappeared. In 1264, Rosso Padellaio was paid for the copper sphere on top of the dome.
A second massive addition was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure by means of an entirely new nave and two aisles ranged perpendicular to the existing nave and centred on the high altar. The construction was begun under the direction of Giovanni di Agostino, better known as a sculptor. Construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348. Basic errors in the construction were already evident by then, however, and the work was never resumed. The outer walls, remains of this extension, can now be seen to the south of the Duomo. The floor of the uncompleted nave now serves as a parking lot and museum, and, though unfinished, the remains are testament to Sienese power, ambition, and artistic achievement.

The façade of this cathedral was built in two stages. The lower part in polychrome marble was begun around 1284. It is built in Tuscan Gothic style by Giovanni Pisano, replete with gargoyles. Giovanni Pisano worked on the lower levels until 1296, when he suddenly left Siena. At that time, between 1270 and 1285, the nave of the church had been raised and a higher façade became necessary. Work at the façade continued for another fifteen years and was then stopped. Meanwhile in 1288, the rose window, a large circular stained-glass window, was installed in the choir, based on designs by Duccio di Buoninsegna.

The three portals, surmounted by lunettes and Gothic pediments, were designed by Giovanni Pisano. The columns between the portals are richly decorated with acanthus scrolls, allegorical figures and biblical scenes.

The Chapel of Saint John the Baptist is situated in the left transept. At the back of this chapel, amidst a rich renaissance decorations, is the bronze statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello. In the middle is a 15th c. baptismal font. But most impressive in this chapel are the eight frescoes by Pinturicchio, commissioned by Alberto Aringhieri, and painted between 1504 and 1505. Two are repainted in the 17th c. and a third was completely replaced in 1868. The original paintings in the chapel are: Nativity of John the Baptist, John the Baptist in the desert and John the Baptist preaching. He also painted two portraits: Aringhieri with the cloak of the Order of the Knights of Malta and Kneeling Knight in Armour. These two portraits show us a very detailed background.

I really enjoyed the amazing Piccolomini library.  Adjoining the cathedral is the Piccolomini library, housing precious illuminated choir books and frescoes painted by the Umbrian Bernardino di betto, called Pinturicchio, probably based on designs by Raphael.

The visual impact of these very colourful frescoes is stunning. The frescoes tell the story of the life of Siena's favourite son, cardinal Enea Silvio Piccolomini, who eventually became Pope Pius II. He was the uncle of cardinal Francesco Piccolomini Todeschini (then archbishop of Siena and the future pope Pius III), who commissioned this library in 1492 as a repository of the books and the manuscript collection of his uncle. The ceiling is covered with painted panels of mythological subjects. They were executed between 1502 and 1503 by Pinturicchio and his assistants.

The entrance is a finely carved marble monument with two openings with round arches, executed in 1497 by Lorenzo di Mariano. It contains a round relief of St. John the Evangelist (probably) by Giovanni di Stefano and, below the altar, a polychrome Pietà by the sculptor Alberto di Betto da Assisi in 1421. Above this marble monument is a fresco of the Papal Coronation of Pius III by Pinturicchio in 1504.

In the middle of the library is the famous statue Three Graces, a Roman copy of a Greek original.

Pinturicchio painted this cycle of frescoes around the library between 1502 and 1507, representing Rafael and himself in several of them. This masterpiece is full of striking detail and vivacious colours. Each scene is explained in Latin by the text below. They depict ten remarkable events from the secular and religious career of pope Pius II, first as a high prelate, then bishop, a cardinal and ultimately pope:

Next we went to see il Palio, the square where the famous horse race is run.  The Palio di Siena (known locally simply as Il Palio) is a horse race held twice each year on July 2 and August 16 in Siena, Italy, in which ten horses and riders, bareback and dressed in the appropriate colours, represent ten of the seventeen Contrade, or city wards. The Palio held on July 2 is named Palio di Provenzano, in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano, who has a church in Siena. The Palio held on August 16 is named Palio dell'Assunta, in honour of the Assumption of Mary.

A magnificent pageant, the Corteo Storico, precedes the race, which attracts visitors and spectators from around the world.

The race itself, in which the jockeys ride bareback, circles the Piazza del Campo, on which a thick layer of dirt has been laid, three times and usually lasts no more than 90 seconds. It is not uncommon for a few of the jockeys to be thrown off their horses while making the treacherous turns in the piazza, and indeed it is not unusual to see unmounted horses finishing the race without their jockeys.

Heres the fountain the James Bond came out of in his last movie:

The streets of Siena are calm and just what I think of when I think of Tuscany;;

Sabrina looking for that little brother....

We had a nice lunch in Siena and had the Pici pasta, which is a thicker type of pasta which we all liked.  We passed on the panforte,  for which I have never been a fan.  Then, all roads lead to Rome...

July 4, 2011--firenze

 Today was a free day for us in Florence.  We were all tired and slept in to 10am (me) and noon (the kids) before venturing out.  We walked around the park within the hotel and were blessed once again with perfect weather.  The first picture is me with the computer---Vicki believes it is physically linked to me.

We finally got up and into the park within the hotel to look around.

Then we made our way to Pizzaiouli and had a great lunch with pizza Napoli style.  Not too far from our hotel and recommended by our driver who was Florentine.  We were surrounded by Italians, which is always a good sign.  Quite inexpensive for the quality.  

After this, we made our way toward the Ponte Vecchio, since the ladies wanted to do some shopping.  Saw some interesting shops along the way.

After this we headed toward the Ponte Vecchio and the Arno for some shopping and pictures.

Nice picture with the Arno as a backdrop

A typical crowded street in the Ponte Vecchio

We shopped for some gloves and handbags and Vicki found a necklace she liked.  Amanda found some nice earrings and they both found a scarf.  On the way back, we passed by some art students near the Uffizi...perhaps Melissa next spring?

 

Had another great dinner surrounded by Italians at Il Guscio.   We had a delicious vegetable appetizer, a ravioli with porcini and scarzone first course, and then the girls had a version of steak florentine while I had a white fish in parchment.  It was accompanied by a Brunello di Montalcino stella di campalto 2005--their prices were the best I have seen in italy, so we splurged on a good bottle.  It was forward, fruity, with a long finish...much different from the backward, unfiltered Conterno's I had 10-15 years ago.  A great experience all around.  

june 3--florence

We drove from Venice to Florence this morning.  About a 3 hour drive in very pleasant weather.  We had a nice driver who told us all about Florence.  His wife is an abstract painter, so we told him Melissa was coming to study art here next year.

We arrived and then had a light lunch at the Four Seasons.  A remarkable hotel with the largest (10  acre) private park in Florence.  I will need to take some pictures tomorrow.

Our guide Guido arrived complaining that the hotel made him late.  We then took for for the Accademia to see David.  He was surrounded by scaffolding when we came last, so we got a much better look this time.

We also learned about the unfinished sculptures of Michaelangelo...not his tortured soul trying to escape the paradox between his devout love of the bible and his homosexuality.  Apparently, the pope kept changing his mind about the project and then stopped paying.

Off from this trip to the Uffizi museum to see all the must-sees of this trip.

We also saw the Florence cathedral with the octagonal dome representing the 7 days of creation and the 8th side representing the ascent of Christ.  

Almost forgot the famous door of the cathedral.

We then saw all kinds of great art in the Uffizi...overwhelming since our guide took us through multiple centuries of history in a very short time.  I think we were simply getting a little tired.

By the end, we were feeling like Medusa.

Amanda kept smiling for the most part though.

In the end, we all had a great time although we are looking to a guide-free lazy day tomorrow.